André Brunel, Weißwein trocken, Rebsorten: 80% Roussanne, 20 % Grenache blanc, im Alter von 30 Jahren, kann reifen bis nach 2026
verkostet März 2021
Schon die hell glänzende, goldgelbe Farbe des Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc Domaine Les Cailloux gefällt. Seine mineralische Note begleiten Aromen von reifer Birne, Mandeln und weißen Blüten. Im Mund wirkt die Frucht dicht und stoffig mit Schmelz. Ihre cremige Konsistenz lässt die präsente Säure gut eingebunden wirken. Trinkreife bis nach 2026
Robert Parker 93/100 Punkte
Wine Enthusiast 93/100 Punkte
Falstaff 92/100 Punkte
Wine Spectator 92/100 Punkte
Robert Parker Wine Advocate Rating 93 Drink Date 2022-2026 Reviewed by Joe Czerwinski Issue Date 5th May 2022
Primarily Roussanne (80%), with bits of Clairette and Grenache Blanc (10% each), the tank-aged 2019 Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc offers up alluring notes of honeydew melon, pear, pineapple and just a hint of crushed stone. Quite full and broad, it's a flavorful, textural mouthful of ripe goodness, with a lingering finish of fennel and citrus.
I was able to visit with Fabrice Brunel at his 1960s-era winery, where the foundation had recently been poured for a new addition and the last grapes of 2021 had been brought in only days before. "We had some frost at the beginning of April," said Brunel. "But what we have [in 2021] is quite nice, maybe not a vintage to keep for 20 years." He likened 2019 to 2010 and 2016 in status—lofty praise indeed, while he said of 2020, "Very nice, but I think it has less concentration than ’19."
In the winery, all of the tanks are concrete, with oak only used for aging Syrah. We tasted from several tanks of the 2020 Les Cailloux, along with a barrel of the Syrah, and a prospective blend, plus a tank that may be bottled as the 2020 Cuvée Centenaire. Promising, as always. The Cuvee Centenaire comes from a single plot of old-vine Grenache (planted 1889) in the lieu-dit of Farguerol. There's a bit of Mourvèdre interplanted there, and in most vintages, the best barrel of Syrah also finds its way into the blend. Roughly 500 cases are bottled in vintages when it's produced, with the balance blended into the regular Les Cailloux bottling.
Fabrice was able to locate several older vintages for tasting as well, so I've included those notes here for collectors who may still have the wines in their cellars or who may be looking to backfill their collections. These wines are built to be fairly accessible on release, so don't age them indefinitely. Check in on them from time to time, and drink them when they seem ready to you. It's possible some readers may prefer their wines more mature than I do, so keep that in mind when reading my impressions of the old wines.
André Brunel, Rotwein trocken, Rebsorten: 70% Grenache, 17% Mourvèdre, 10% Syrah und 3% Cinsault, Durchschnittsalter der Reben 60 Jahre, kann reifen bis nach 2035
verkostet März 2021
Der Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Cailloux André Brunel leuchtet in mittlerer, rubinroter Farbe. Komplex entfalten sich seine Aromen von Cassis, Kirschlikör sowie Rauch und Speck. Dicht und druckvoll steht der Wein am Gaumen. Seine Textur präsentiert er seidig elegant mit frischer, reifer Kirschfrucht.
Wine Enthusiast 94/100 Punkte
Wine Spectator 94/100 Punkte
Robert Parker Wine Advocate Rating 93+/100 Drink Date 2020-2035 Reviewed by Joe Czerwinski
Because of coulure in the Grenache, the 2017 Chateauneuf du Pape contains less of that variety than normal, with correspondingly higher proportions of Mourvèdre and Syrah. Dark berry and spice notes mark the nose, while the full-bodied palate is tight, but it retains the estate's hallmark silky texture and plenty of length.